Site planning

Map sun and shade before you plan your garden

The same garden may have a bright fence line, an afternoon shade pocket and a hot wall. A quick yard-wide label is less useful than recording what happens in the specific spots you might plant.

Record what you see, not what you expect

Sketch the yard and pick three or four candidate spots. Observe at intervals from morning to late afternoon on a clear day. Write down when direct sunlight reaches each spot and what blocks it. Check again if the season changes or deciduous trees are still bare; a spring sketch can look quite different after leaf-out.

Plan by spot

Use your log to roughly separate brighter areas, mixed light and shade. Many full-sun labels mean about six or more hours of direct sun, but requirements vary by plant. Check the specific plant and your local extension’s guidance. Some afternoon shade can be helpful on a hot site. Don’t place the vegetable beds by convenience alone if that spot never receives much direct sun.

Add water and access to the same sketch

Note where the hose reaches, where water stands after rain, and dry pockets beneath eaves or trees. A plant can be suited to a yard’s light but struggle with wet soil or root competition. Group plants with similar water needs where practical and leave space to access beds for maintenance.

Use hardiness as one filter, not a planting list

The USDA zone map describes typical annual extreme winter lows. Use it to screen perennial plants, then check heat, moisture, mature size, local invasiveness, and how much care each option needs. An extension plant database is a better starting point than an attractive photo that doesn’t identify the plant.

Turn the log into a design decision

Choose the area with the most consistent suitable light for your main planting goal. Keep your other garden uses movable while you observe conditions. Take your measurements and light notes to a local nursery or extension office when you’re ready to choose plants.

Sketch your own layout